Category: Speakeasy

Jeroboam

Speakeasy

Jeroboam

Who is a nomad?

Dictionary definition says that a nomad is a member of a group of people who have no fixed residence and move from place to place. Their travels usually happen seasonally within a prefixed territory. Historically speaking, the nomads shepherded goats, sheep, and cattle across the lands they’ve traveled. Nowadays, nomads roam the world, accompanied by their digital devices and 4G connection supplies. A modern nomad is aware of surrounding cultures, is driven by curiosity, and is not scared to change, to move, to explore and to learn more.

Jeroboam presents perfume extracts for urban nomads.

These fragrance juices are pressed, especially for the nomads of today to allow them to express the variety of their lifestyles and values. The language that has been chosen to communicate the scent concepts is Esperanto, a universal language that is part of literary modernism, and created to communicate across national borders and promote universal brotherhood, freedom of expression, and widespread literacy – “the whole of modern humanity”.

So as the language chosen, so the juices – the stories twirl around modernism and the now. Besides, considering the fact that the majority of modern perfumes have musky bases, Jeroboam fragrances are designed to be universal, and all maintain these lusty notes of musk. Musk is an ingredient that outbalances everything in the mix, allowing the resulting fragrance to last longer, and making it obvious why it is most commonly used in perfumery. Some sources say that women’s sensitivity to musk is 1,000 times greater than men’s.

A lifestyle that is enlivened by a unifying ingredient, language and a sign of the era put into the concept of nomadism – a norm and practice of today. Nina Simone once said that an artist has to reflect the times we live in. Jeroboam’s small art pieces capture and reflect it well. Many cultures have traditionally been nomadic, but nomadic behavior is becoming a norm within the representatives of the new economy and new modernist generation. We live in the times where the uniform values become invalid and uniformity is constructed around individuality and personal experience; the times where the social norms are everything and nothing; where the identity is vague; where there’s lack of faith, n overload of cynicism and new hedonism – that all is filtrated through worldwide nomadic diaspora and the desire for progress.

Jeroboam captures the notion of now and creates the potions for modern nomads, seducing and captivating scents of the times we live and we will be living in.

Jeroboam – The Brand

          

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

Jovoy – Touche Finale

Speakeasy

Jovoy – Touche Finale

An art critic Robert Hughes once stated in the Time Magazine that the greater the artist, the greater the doubt. In his opinion, the perfect confidence is granted to the less talented as a consolation prize. There is no doubt that the uncertainty pushes the creators further, doubt makes an artist to continue the path, prioritize the progress, and pursue perfection. The greatest works of art will remain always undone.

A sense of doubt is something common within creators, the producers of art. This overwhelming feeling takes over and confuses the creators, fuses, and makes the way towards the final goal unclear. “Our doubts are traitors, and make us lose the good we oft might win, by fearing to attempt,” wrote William Shakespeare in his Measure for Measure. To continue and reach the finish line, the artist shall trust their intuition and keep a clear vision while finalizing their work of art. And to keep that vision clear, each artist has its own ways to prepare, own rituals he or she carries out, where a seduction of one’s soul is always involved, a right appearance that is kept under an eccentric control, with the slow dressing and make up involved, where the ‘final touch’ of a preparation is a very light pad of powder and a spray of a perfume, so that the main character can slay away straight on to the stage.

At this point, from this point and precisely this point is captured in a perfume bottle by Jovoy. “Touche Finale” is an olfactory depiction of the very last stroke that makes a masterpiece final, a very last needed touch to complete the aesthetic appearance. An appearance that shall be appreciated primarily for its beauty and emotional power.

This is a paradox of an artwork. On the one hand, when work is done, it’s done. It is signed, sealed, and delivered to the public domain. On the other hand, the work of art never stops; it gains another status quo in public. It floats and infuses through the audience, mixes with different identities, gives and takes, transforms into something new, into another.

The audience will smell, interpret, use, reinterpret, spray too much, and maybe misinterpret. The artwork will gain an infinite status, an endless process of a never finished piece…

Even when the last stroke has been given to the picture, even then the perfume has been consumed, and the last spray has been evaporated, the legacy will carry on, the sillage will remain, if not in the air then in the memory lane. And the paradox of art will stay mysteriously the same.

Touche Finale – The Product

          

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

Stephane Humbert Lucas – Panthea Iris

Speakeasy

Stephane Humbert Lucas – Panthea Iris

“Let yourself be silently drawn by the strange pull of what you really love.
It will not lead you astray.” – Rumi

Isn’t it strange that we’re always somehow pulled and attracted to the Other, the unknown, to something far away. We’re magnetized and drawn to it more than to something standing close to us. This something far away, something above us, drives us. We live in a world full of remarkable individuals, be it the people from the past, present, or the future. And the hope, or whatever type of faith – faith in power, faith in beauty… Faith is the driving force of the Other, the tribal chiefs, the patriarchs, the crowned heads – the men above us who make us dream.

A dream is a triumph of imagination, a call for something otherworldly. A dream might be an intrigue, a quest for an elucidate moment of beauty.

SHL synthesized something faraway and dream-like into a perfume concept – a collection of alluring fragrances based on rare essences that are infused with captivating characters, Middle Eastern folklore and the mystery of the long history.

The new chapter in this book begins with a story of PANTHEA IRIS – an extraordinarily divine creature, a messenger of good notices in the form of a rainbow, a rare find that makes one wonder. Rainbow also serves as a symbol of peace and serenity, seen after a rainstorm when the sun breaks through the clouds, and the new feeling of hope touches one’s heart.

This blue-blooded creature, with a smile and shining eyes, can be spotted between the dark clouds of the Prussian blue sky… She is almost unreachable, untouchable but perceivable and influential. She’s unforgettable.

The preciousness of iris, one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery, requires patience and control, requires the need and the want to be delicate in every sense. Like a touch of a treasured silk fabric brought from the East, and perceived as a gift of God, this scent is the ultimate expression of divinity.

Losing yourself in the object of the wonder might be possible through a sense of smell, and it might be the most beautiful experience one could ever have had… May it be here, there or on the other side of the rainbow.

Panthea Iris – The Product

          

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

Goldfield & Banks – Velvet Splendour

Speakeasy

Goldfield & Banks – Velvet Splendour

Indigenous as an adjective refers to something that originates or occurs naturally in a particular place. This particular place might be Australia, and its native ingredients might tell a story never heard before.

The founding father of paleontology, Georges Cuvier, a French naturalist and zoologist once said: “The most splendid monuments which art has erected are in honor of ornithology.” …it takes a while to fly from Europe towards the land of Australia and to research and understand it’s diverse surface, to extract the rarest ingredients, to blend the most exquisite scents, to smell and to capture the precious essence of the land.

It also requires a risk-loving adventurer, a curious soul to explore and seizure the wild side of the continent – the vast blue coastlines, thick forests, and the seemingly unending dusty deserts. The first known landing in Australia was done by a Dutch navigator Willem Janszoon in 1606. Later that year, Spanish explorer Luís Vaz de Torres sailed through and marked on the map the Torres Strait islands. To explore something also means to take the responsibility of giving a definition to it, the responsibility of a conceptualization. GOLDFIELD & BANKS conceptualized Australia through olfaction. The brand captures every color of the different parts of the land, studies, and extracts an essence of each and every bark, leaf, flower, and seed… In order to talk, to talk about the land through smell.

This year’s release smells tender, tender as touch. VELVET SPLENDOUR is a tender blast from the past. The liquid of the fragrance reflects the color of Acacia pycnantha – Australia’s national flower, better known in other parts of the world as mimosa, a plant with delicate fern-like leaves and yellow flowers. The plant genus name comes from Spanish mimosa, which is the feminine form of the Spanish adjective mimoso meaning “cuddly”. This flower is sensitive to touch, and the best-known plant from that genus is the Mimosa pudica, known in English as the “touch-me-not”.

Touch has a secret power; it transmits the message in an instant, just as the smell. A touch can be surprising, can be expected, can be rude or gentle… But what’s most important is that each and every one of us craves to be touched… Mentally, physically, spiritually, we crave for recognition and care, we crave for proximity and understanding. Because what is life without a loved one? Without his or her arms around us? Without his or her smell next to us? Both smell and touch, are related to intimacy, to fragility. Both smell and touch, require a certain type of openness, a risk taken to receive.

Velvet Splendour utilizes the Australian Mimosa flower, a meatier and more brutal sort of mimosa, a smell a bit unusual to the European palette. Here, the expected shy and powdery touch of mimosa gains more character and leads towards the discovery of unexpectedly direct Australian version.

Velvet Splendour – The Product

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

THoO – Keep Glazed

Speakeasy

THoO – Keep Glazed

When Lucifer invites you personally on an unforgettable, gourmand journey through the tropical heat, fruit plants, straight into the allure of all sweet and sticky, the temptation that steals the soul is revealed.

In the Bible the word temptation primarily signifies a trial in which man has a free choice of being faithful or unfaithful to God, as a secondary meaning, the temptation signifies the allurement or seduction to sin.

“Keep Glazed” is a sweet sin captured in a perfume bottle, the fifth olfactive creation in the Colorful Collection by THoO perfumes. The perfume was created in collaboration with pastry chef Ksenia Penkina, and unites two crafts – the pastry-making and the perfume-making.

Gourmand creations have always had their game on and have never left a person passing by emotionless. Meanwhile, THoO Patisserie specializes in tortes for modern taste-makers, “Keep Glazed” is an alluring tribute to the French pastry and the colonies conquered back in the day. The olfactive attraction of the exotic, wild desires and the seduction of the light, sweet, almost naive femininity as Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. A controversial historical female figure trapped in a system constructed by men and royal arrangements, her tiny frilly moments of rebellion are sweet and inspiring, just as Ladurée macaroons. Antoinette is also famous for her declaration: “Let them eat cake,” which gives a meaning of indulging into sweets as an act of personal freedom, a minute of liberation that no one can steal, no one can own, no one can control. “Keep Glazed” is tasty and playful, just as Coppola’s lady Marie, who could wear Manolo Blahniks and Converse, have a lover and drip into the sweet side of life whenever she wanted to do so.

The recipe of this irresistible dessert has been signed, sealed and delivered by perfumers Andrea Cassoti and Cristian Calabro, using the same ingredients as those of Ksenia’s pastry. Each confectioner guards the secrets of his or her recipes as each master perfumer, and they both are the masters of the ceremony of olfactory suggestions to excite and create new sensations. 

“Keep Glazed” is a fragrance that arouses the sympathy for the devil and flirts with our sweet tooth, it awakens the weakness towards sweet temptation one cannot resist… Even Oscar Wilde knew this to say: “I can resist anything, except temptation.”

Keep calm, keep glazed, and let them eat cake!

Keep Glazed – The Product

         

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

HEELEY

Speakeasy

HEELEY

What an Englishman specialized in philosophy, aesthetics, and design could do in Paris? Perfumes, of course.

With an ability to give a critical reflection on art, culture, and nature, Mr. James Heeley dons the artistic perfumery thanks to being a master in the study of subjective judgments of sentiments, sensations, and taste.

His own aesthetics are pretty classic, and he likes to keep things simple yet give a bit of a personality through the details, be it names, illustrative perfume logos on the bottles or the collaborations – his latest with Maison Kitsune – a fresh and urban view on citrusy scents. In the Urban Dictionary “fresh” is defined as something pleasantly new or different, something acceptable and highly approved by someone, and Heeley’s “Note de Yuzu” is ‘fresh’ by nature. Besides, one of his first scents, “Menthe Fraîche” has been marked as a highly wearable yet elegantly contemporary scent created from such a simple and recognizable yet complicated ingredient as mint. A definite sign of personal taste and aesthetics.

The word aesthetic is derived from Greek ‘αἰσθητικός’, meaning “esthetic, sensitive, about sense perception,” which in turn was derived from ‘αἰσθάνομαι’, meaning “I perceive, feel, sense” and related to a word ‘αἴσθησις’ that means “sensation.” Most of the people know that aesthetics a study deals with a set of principles concerned with the nature and appreciation of beauty, it’s a branch of philosophy which deals with questions of beauty and artistic taste. To have an idea of beauty and to be able to communicate it through a sense of smell is something very challenging. First, one should understand, then define beauty. Second, one should find the sources and create, find the channels and communicate. Let it out there.

As an autodidact by nature, James Heeley’s continually evolving work contains a varied collection of modern fragrances that transcend the traditional French perfume-making and pay attention to the detail by making sure that part of the process has been designed ‘in house.’

Oscar Wilde once said that, if a work of art is rich and vital and complete, those who have artistic instincts will see its beauty and those to whom ethics appeal more strongly than aesthetics will see its moral lesson. It will fill the cowardly with terror, and the unclean will see in it their own shame. That being said and agreed upon it must also be stated that everyone should do what comes naturally, and Heeley is a natural.

Blanc Poudre – The Product

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

EIGHT & BOB

Speakeasy

EIGHT & BOB

They say that the world is your oyster, which is partially true, but the world is also a hell of a show, oftentimes a performance of the wealthy, the beautiful and the fortunate.

This fragrance collection happened back in the good old days, just before the Second World War broke loose. The rich and famous were invulnerable back then, they were unreachable via social media, their taste was matchless and unique, and their lifestyle especially exclusive, full of dazzling parties and encounters. One of these encounters between the French, Albert Fouquet, and the American, John F. K. on The French Riviera, gave birth to the brand “Eight and Bob” and an iconic fragrance that carries the pure elegance of a gentleman and the charm of the golden era into the nowadays.

Through a fragrance, we can travel back in time, revive the good old times and smell the best of American allure. Eight & Bob is a niche perfume brand created by the French perfumer Albert Fouquet that carries and shares a blend of French Americana, a drop of history conceived in a perfume bottle de facto. It’s not merely an inspiration from the past; it’s a fact, a living history in a perfume bottle, a blast from the elite past, and an olfactive role model that carries the values of the best.

We start a relationship with something or someone not just because of how great they are but how great they make us feel. And this is probably why and how Eight & Bob came alive – JFK was captivated by the essence that Albert wore and made for himself. A perfumer by chance, he received plenty of compliments about his blends, but nobody ever asked about the product and production, except JFK, who was lucky to receive a sample upon his departure to the States.

Human relations grant us extraordinary gifts – such as a chance to experience something new, to start something new, to love, to enjoy… they make us feel. JFK felt something special about Albert and the cologne of his, so he ordered more, and it became his signature scent for years. Part of his identity.

Ever since, the formula of “Eight & Bob” has been kept the same and is perceived as one of the most exclusive colognes in the world due to the natural ingredient called Andrea which grows and is collectable during only a very short period of time in the year so that the production of “Eight & Bob” is still very limited. Yet exclusive, dazzling and glamorous – 

A spray of history not to be forgotten.

          

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

AEDES DE VENUSTAS

Speakeasy

AEDES DE VENUSTAS

People tend to think that fragrance is an intangible thing, in order to object this perception I would like to define the word “object”. What is the meaning of an object? An object might be a material thing that can be seen and touched; an object might be a person or a thing to which a specified action or feeling is directed. But in general, an object refers to any item, either in the physical or sensory world. 

AEDES DE VENUSTAS represents olfactive objects, in both, physical and sensory worlds, by honoring the past, present and the future the art of perfumery. Just as an art that challenges the “I” that we are, so as the fragrances by AEDES DE VENUSTAS raise questions, make us recognize the pleasure and the terror side of love, challenge the reality, make us dream, make us believe that magic exists and think that it might be true that everything is possible, and create new views… A new point of view.

On an everyday basis we work hard at taming our emotional environment, sticking to the routine and normalizing everything, but we do also work hard at taming our aesthetic environment. 

We are seduced by the beauty at all times – be it a piece of history as a lavish baroque statue or a futuristic and sleek design piece that tells everything in a clean, clear and polished way. This mix of the novel and the traditional is something unique and something very identifying for AEDES. A mixture of the two that balance and create a sublime, almost magical equilibrium of the forms, styles, and scents. These here are not just fragrances, these here are unique objects to look at, to be touched by… visually, olfactively, sensually, subconsciously, and sensorially.

An object is something that we can focus on, an object is something important. And when you buy something artistic, you’re buying something more than just an object. You’re buying hundreds of hours of trials and errors and wins; you’re buying a perfect final result, a clean thought, you’re buying a salvation, someone’s art.

The healing power of art is not a rhetorical fantasy. AEDES DE VENUSTAS fragrance bottles shall be perceived as objects of art, and the scents that combine the youthful future and the frivolous past, perfect blends. Here, the mind might question, but the heart knows that a new experience awaits. To sum up the idea of the concept, the wisdom of Robert Henri must be revealed here: “The object isn’t to make art, it’s to be in that wonderful state which makes art inevitable.”

       

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

EAU D’ITALIE

Speakeasy

EAU D’ITALIE

Just as the sounds of Stéphane Grappelli’s violin tune you into the track “Easy To Love,” so as smelling Eau d’Italie’s new fragrance… A new Easy Lover composed to celebrate the 15 years of love towards Italy.

Everyone has heard of musical notes, the individual sounds that make up the songs we love to listen to. And it’s no secret that like how many musical notes make a song; fragrance notes make up a perfume. As songs evoke feelings, so do smells… Records from the past, dreams towards the future, and an encapsulation of the present time being.

Eau d’Italie wanted to record and save into the fragrance bottles the uniqueness of Italy and interpret into the scents the Italian creativity. Born in Positano, on the Amalfi Coast known for it’s extraordinary beauty, the brand documents first and foremost the Italianness.

For such a rich documentary, one needs to have the cultural knowledge and the multi-set vocabulary to collect, list, interpret and transmit the messages through the sense of smell. The blend needs to include the precision and expertise of a documentalist, a curiosity of a cultural anthropologist and an inspirational open-mindedness of a perfect storyteller. Such collection is a stylistic representation of a work of a historian passionate about the present and the senses, the sensorial communication, a work of individuals who want to get personal, who have patience and passion to record and recon the personal, and bravery to share it all with the world through the most primitive and tender sense – the smell.

Italian culture carries an uncountable amount of symbols and messages stored within the various fields and transmitted through the centuries. There is a meaningful story behind everything – behind the beauty of the diverse landscapes and natures; behind the particular nature of different characters discovered while travelling up and down, from coast to coast; the rich gastronomic culture and the elevated sense of taste; the expressive body language, gestures and emotions; the written and unwritten rules and traditions that are still very present.

Eau d’Italie codifies the essence of Italy into the scents. The fragrances are mapping the remarkable places; they reveal the personal and historical moments from the past by giving a tour through Italy by revealing something from the past, something from the present and giving a vision towards the probable future. One can design its own trip, for instance, by parting from the north with BAUME DU DOGE – an essence of Venice, when it was the gateway to the East and the most important trading center for spices and exotic goods. Making a pitstop in the middle with the SIENNE L’HIVER – a capture of the refined world of the Renaissance city of Siena. After, honoring the golden era and vacating like a star with UN BATEAU POUR CAPRI – an iconic scent of an iconic era when Positano’s Hotel Le Sirenuse was by definition the place where la dolce vita was to be found on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. And after all, diving deep into the south and getting one-on-one with the ancient wisdom through the smell of JARDIN DU POETE – a tale from a bygone era, when nations were ruled by poets, and poets were sacred to Apollo, when Sicily was a Greek colony and Syracuse was a fragrant court.

To truly comprehend the essence of Italy, one should use the sense of smell and let the imagination follow the rest, disconnect and reconnect like no other with the refined and seducing scents of Italy by Eau d’Italie.

          

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking

FRAGRANCE DU BOIS

Speakeasy

FRAGRANCE DU BOIS

Fragrance Du Bois is a brand that was born in nature and is crafted in France. It’s main essence is pure oud – a pure luxury of nature and cultural heritage. 

Oud, also known as agarwood, is the most precious and expensive timer in the world. The finest oud distilled from the wood today has a starting price of $50,000 per kilo. Agarwood trees are one of the most sought-after tree species due to its rarity and quality. This wood is also considered as sacred, incenses and perfumes that are produced from agarwood have been valued for centuries and used by many cultures for spiritual, aphrodisiac, calming and purifying purposes.

Each creation of Fragrance Du Bois uses pure Agarwood tree oil and fumes the mystery of Oud. At this point the meaning of a word “purity” could be traced through an adjective “pure” that carries two meanings: 1) not mixed or adulterated with any other substance or material; 2) perfectly in tune and with a clear tone. Purity as quality of any subject in discussion gives a beautiful state of comfort and confidence and motivates the notion of ultimate luxury. Fragrance Du Bois is the only fragrance house that uses its signature 100% pure and natural Oud in all its fragrance formulations, paired only with ingredients of the most exceptional quality.

It requires a strong vision and knowledge to craft and to give birth to such project, and it takes time and patience to plan and part on a journey towards the elevation of this ancient ingredient. The knowledge of craft can be seen here as something cultural rather than a primitive process. The realization that we are living in a very different world to ten years ago created the need to reconnect with what matters and a start to think about making things that fit the purpose and not just making things for the sake of them. With the reinterpretation and the usage of pure Oud in each scent, Fragrance Du Bois rethinks the relationship with craft and traditions. Word “craft” is strongly linked to the identity of the brand.

The citation of agarwood in many important religious texts transmits its significant presence within the spiritual world. The long historical use of agarwood has been associated with cultures where aromatics are deeply ingrained in cultural experiences, such as the Middle East, India, China, and Japan. Through the usage of agarwood as the main ingredient, the perfumes represent culturally universal luxury. Intoxicating yet purifying and calming grandeur is an experience what to expect while encountering with these fragrances.

          

Article written by Julia Ahtijainen – The Frankly Speaking